Universal Works: Nottingham workwear, properly cut

Who Universal Works are

Universal Works was co-founded by David Keyte, who spent decades in British fashion including senior roles at Paul Smith and Maharishi before setting up on his own. The company is based in Nottingham and describes itself as an independent, small company that approaches its work with passion and a sense of humour.

The design brief, in the brand's own words, is to make real, honest clothing based on fit and good design, though never over designed. What that looks like on the rail is workwear shapes in good cloth: a chore jacket you can wear to work and to dinner, a chino with a proper rise, an overshirt that does the job of a light jacket.

The Bakers Jacket

The piece Universal Works is best known for is the Bakers Jacket, named after Keyte's father, who was a baker. Keyte has said he remembered the curved sleeves of his dad's work jacket from years of wear, so he added darted sleeves to get the same ergonomic shape. It draws on workwear from the Fordist era between the 1920s and the 1970s, and the brand now makes new versions every season in different fabrics. It has become the core Universal Works piece for the simple reason that it goes with almost everything.

What we stock

Our range covers tailoring and jackets, trousers and chinos, shirts and overshirts, knitwear and sweatshirts, plus scarves. We do not carry Universal Works footwear.

Fabrics worth knowing about: Harris Tweed, Italian knitted wool fleece, cotton twill, moleskin, corduroy, seersucker, chambray and recycled tweed. The Harris Tweed comes from the Kenneth Mackenzie Mill in the Outer Hebrides.

How Universal Works fits, and the trouser question

Sizing is consistent with standard UK sizing. Tops run XS to XXXL, trousers by waist in inches from 28 to 38. Silhouettes are relaxed across the board.

Trousers need a word of their own, because Universal Works does not publish inside leg measurements and this catches people out. The reason is the rise: their trousers sit higher than most, so an inside leg figure would mislead you about where the hem lands. Use the fit names instead. The Aston is the slimmest, a slim to straight leg. The Military Chino is the contemporary classic, slim to straight. The Fatigue, Troopers Fatigue and Dutch Pant are all loose or oversized, with the Dutch the widest of the lot. The Oxford is wide and slightly cropped.

Buying Universal Works in Belfast and Ireland

Universal Works is one of the harder brands to find on the island of Ireland. Our full range ships across the UK and to the Republic, and the same stock hangs at Rio Brazil in Victoria Square, Belfast. If you want to feel the difference between a Military Chino and a Fatigue Pant before deciding, that is what the shop is for.